#736 theoldmortuary ponders.

One of life’s pleasures, of my sort of aimless wandering in a foreign city, is indulging in capturing the textures, colours and experience of inconsequential but interesting things.

I loved the texture created by the loss of mortar between the bricks of this wall in Venice. Texture and ginger colours was a bit of a thing for me on this particular day. I was able to see the original painting of a mythical bird woman by Max Ernst.

The imperious bird-woman commands our attention with her direct owl’s gaze, and seems alarmingly about to step out of the painting. The robe depicted here may refer to the mystic initiation of Christian Rosenkreuz, founder of Rosicrucianism. It seems also to have autobiographical allusions, with the artist present in the green swan or heron. Much of the highly textured surface has been created by decalcomania, a technique of dabbing at wet paint with rags or paper to create a puckered surface. The comprehensive meaning of this painting eludes us, as is characteristic.

Max Ernst’s paintings often baffle me, but even when reproduced the textures he creates are thrilling. To see one up close and actually see the picture in person was a fabulous treat. But as a word collector I was almost as thrilled with the word ‘decalcomania’

So much to take in, in one walk. Time for refreshment. Which turned out to be just one more moment of inconsequential discovery. My poor old post-covid taste buds long for anything that stimulates them into action, however brief. Ginger is a regular drink of choice and the fierier the better. There was an Italian soft drink that promised great things with its name.

Gingerino offered not a glimmer of ginger but it was one of the bitterest and delicious things I have tasted in a long while. Despite its nuclear colour I was hooked and rather giddily had another. Sadly it seems my discovery was just a very brief holiday romance. Gingerino and I will never be reconnected in the U.K.

A day of remarkable ginger texture is definitely a day well spent.

#735 theoldmortuary ponders

Yesterday’s blog, https://theoldmortuary.design/2023/11/28/734-theoldmortuary-ponders/ , was all about an exhibition squeezed into our journey to a railway station that was absolutely the sort of thing we love to visit.

Todays blog subject is almost the complete opposite. Easy Jet decided at fairly late notice to cancel our flight home, giving us additional time in Venice until an alternative flight with a different carrier. Next door but one to our hotel there was an exhibition that would probably never be on a ‘must-visit’ list.

©Fondazione Prada

A replication of a 19th Century Venetian Portrait exhibition last curated together in 1920. Proximity to our hotel was key as we had agreed to meet some fellow abandoned travellers to share a water taxi when we discovered we were all on the same alternative flight. So we walked around Fondazione Prada the central bigger building in the picture above and visited Ca’ Pesaro the smaller white palazzo.

We could easily have filled our time in the Modern Art galleries but the deeply pigmented colours of the walls of the portrait exhibition lured us in.

Who wouldn’t be lured in?

What a revelation. The vibrant wall colours absolutely focussed the mind on the gloriousness of traditional portraiture. The anonymity, to us, of the subjects somehow made the whole exhibition easier to view. We even noticed an anomaly.

Real credit to the curators for making unknown portraits interesting. Just one room differed in layout from the 1920 exhibition. Maurizio Pelegrin, an installation artist born in Venice created a space with a very different feel. Like a squirt of lemon on a rich and unctuous meal. Just perfect.

#734 theoldmortuary ponders

One moment in a busy Rome street led us to a retrospective Exhibition of Helmut Newton’s High Fashion photography.

Helmut Newton (born Helmut Neustädter; 31 October 1920 – 23 January 2004) was a German-Australian photographer. The New York Times described him as a “prolific, widely imitated fashion photographer whose provocative, erotically charged black-and-white photos were a mainstay of Vogue and other publications.

Most of us only glimpse the pages of Vogue but his photographs escaped the rarified pages of Fashion magazines and became iconic images of their eras.

He also photographed icons

Loving art and photography is a funny old habit. Under normal circumstances my head and heart would have looked forward to seeing this exhibition, possibly for many months. As it was we spotted the poster less than 24 hours before we were due to leave Rome. We had to squeeze our visit into the journey from hotel to train station. There was already serendipity built into the exhibition even being there during our visit as it had been scheduled to open during the first dreadful months of Covid, when Italy was particularly affected. The reschedule was our good fortune.

But when serendipity strikes it is always a good idea to grasp it. So even though there was only 1 1/2 hours between the exhibition opening and our train leaving we made the most of our moment.

Next stop Venice.

#733 theoldmortuary ponders.

I suspect I will ponder Italy a lot this week. There were a lot of sights, sensations and experiences to process. If I had to come up with a hierarchy  of words that might sum up our experience. Contradictions, Amazement, Luxury and Beauty would all be at the top of the list. Rome gave us hotel luxury. When in Rome stay at The Hoxton. Surely the most comfy of communal areas with fascinating books to browse, while our feet recovered from our twenty thousand tourist steps.

With dedication and the Citymapper App we criss-crossed Rome and caught sight of many of the traditional bucket- list tourist spots. I use the words caught sight because the historic locations in Rome are all  being treated to renovation work. So without queueing in the long queues for each individual location it is very hard to see anything as there are just miles of 7 foot high wooden hoardings circling the perimeter of  every famous site. So I would say we glimpsed Roman antiquities from a distance, from the perspective of the many hills that we traversed. An evening trip to the Vatican City was not something we planned but when in Rome why not.

Spotlessly clean and very white, almost sterile with no fuzzy warm feeling of centuries of humanity coming together for worship. Curiously the feeling was more of a banking global HQ.With a rather fancy doorman. We did find a warm fuzzy feeling in a nearby cafe. Simple good food, great wine and a somewhat idiosyncratic decor of framed Disney jigsaw puzzles and many photos of the Pope kissing small children.

All the carb we could possibly need to fuel our walk home. Which took in a detour to the Trevi Fountain.

Which in turn required a few more calories. The Trevi fountain is fabulous in unexpected ways. The building and the fountain both morph out of the same mishapen and craggy marble boulders. All that skill!!!

I think this blog is a summation of our Rome disappointments, but for every disappointment there werealso hugely interesting unplanned events.

Just one more disappointment to get out into the open. A Contemporary Art Collection that was mind- blowingly empty of art and pretentiously full of arty-farty bollocks. But if that was a big low point it led us by way of a scruffy poster to tomorrows blog, a real unexpected treat.

#732 theoldmortuary ponders

Finding ourselves in the corner of an Art gallery.

After Coffee and Architecture the hunt for Art Galleries and tiny gardens was our motivation and route maker in Venice. The Peggy Guggenhein Collection was a fabulous destination because,not only did it have all  three targeted pleasure points, but the building itself it was also the subject of a book I had chosen as my holiday read.

A faacinating book because so many of the artists who were previously unknown to us, and many who are well known put in frequent appearances in the book. Palazzo Venier was the home to three unusual art and artist-loving women. Luisa Casati, Doris Castlerosse and Peggy Guggenheim.

The corners of this Palazzo hold so many secrets. I am not sure about defining interesting women by the amount or variety of sexual partners they have. But while living in this very peaceful and calm building these women lived quite the life. And goodness me this book tells the reader that this house has seen some action. Not just artistic types either. Churchill visited for R and R and happy endings when, given that he was a World Leader his mind should quite properly have been elsewhere.

The last owner before this home became a gallery is buried in the beautiful garden courtyard with her beloved dogs. Which answers, for her, the question below.

What are your favorite animals?

After an international life of great wealth and the friendship of some of the world’s most famous artists. Peggy Guggenheim chose to be buried beneath Venetian skies with her pet dogs.

It is easy to imagine how that decision was made. There is an astonishing sense of peace and calm under the blue skies of a November day in her last resting place.

My favourite painting from this particular collection of hers is also superbly peaceful. Which proves, I suppose that peace can be found anywhere if you look hard enough.

Empire of Light by Rēne Margritte

#730 theoldmortuary ponders.

We have certainly done some steps in Italy and there are many blogs to follow when the ponder is upon me.

Pigment store in Venice

When we were in Rome we pondered ancient civilisations and contemporary art. A quest that was largely successful with some fabulous surprises thrown in. Our last Art gallery before a train trip to Venice had a prophetic slogan on a T-Shirt.

As luck would have it we were off to the Biennale, but not the Fine Art one with National Pavilions. The Architecture Biennale offered cool spaces in beautiful buildings many of them being restored. No t-shirts with instructions were available which rather allowed us to do as we wished

Which of course was to flâneur a lot.

#729 theoldmortuary ponders.

It is not every day that The Guardian writes a holiday review for Hugo and Lola

https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2023/nov/16/country-diary-ferns-and-ivy-sparkle-in-the-wet-undergrowth?CMP=Share_AndroidApp_Other&fbclid=IwAR0HbbU2gJ1oYdL1cYwM4fGf1dfJNVvgEU7lqWabFSGiybzU3suACFvEvJ0

But as I sit enjoying an early morning coffee on the Grand Canal of Venice . A watery motorway of much beauty. I can read a proper writer’s opinion of a place that was home for many years. And the location of so many Pandemic Ponderings, the forerunner of theoldmortuary ponders. So as I set off for another day of wandering aimlessly please enjoy the landscape that is currently exhausting the dogs.

#728 theoldmortuary ponders

We arrived in Venice by train this evening the sun was just about to set.

We decided to quickly walk to our hotel and then set out for an evening of Flânerie, a Venetian tradition of aimlessly walking about.

We were aimless because the trattoria that was recommended to us was closed, so our first night plan had flittered away.

Being a flâneur is a serious business in Venice, there are bridges to be found and a million things to look at. After 3 or 4 hours of flaneuring our feet were exhausted and our bellies were still empty. Time to retrace our steps to an Osterie that attracted us because of what it didn’t sell.

No Lasagne, no pizza.

It was also opposite a gorgeous green door.

And as it turned out, they sold some pretty amazing seafood.

The Finest of Food for Feeding Footsore Flâneurs.

#727 theoldmortuary ponders.

Do you trust your instincts?

I do trust my instincts to hunt for interesting images, but for accurate travelling I trust the App Citymapper far more. Our last few days in Rome and the daily 20,000 step count has got us to exactly where we have needed to be, thanks to Citymapper. Once we have delivered ourselves to the right location it is time to trust instinct to fine tune the hunt for the unusual. Rome was extraordinarily full of texture, history and Faith.

There is an awful lot of bling involved in Catholicism, not my thing at all. But I found a simple iron cross, some   Sgraffito and some votive candles in a tiny back street. I layered the three together to get a much more humble image of  the textures of Christianity than is normal for Rome.

Texture was definitely the defining experience of walking around Rome. Everything is beautiful and fascinating but the small unplanned details stopped us in our tracks.

Every excursion challenged our feet and minds. Pavements were poorly maintained but older cobbled areas maintained their integrity.

Gorgeous buildings were connected by slightly tatty walls but with so much more interest than a perfectly plastered finish

But history also found its way through perfect plastering.

And old doors told other stories.

New doors too get a bit of a tweak.

Even beige can be interesting in a new city.