#1388 theoldmortuary ponders.

7th December 2025, 22 degrees. Mount Eliza

Yesterday was a day of really bright sunlight and  a temperature of about 2 degrees Centigrade.

It was a day of dog walking, admin and another painting of Coogee Beach, more sunshine.

Coogee Beach, 27 degrees.

Beyond my day’s domestic plans, there was also some Tennis Club admin that needed to be done with a friend.

Beyond Tennis chat, we talked about Christmas, Grief, an erotic novel, kitchen plans, and our holidays. Mine in the past and hers upcoming. She is heading to Bergen and beyond in Norway. She is expecting to experience sunshine and temperatures of about -30.

The whole conversation blew my mind a little bit. Mostly because travel blows my mind a lot. The ease with which we discuss such things as women in the 21st Century is a delight unknown to most women in the past.

The kitchen that we sat in, nattering away, was built about 175 years ago. A home suitable for professional men and their families . The men would have worked either in a nearby Military base or Dockyard or been involved in the Maritime or Fishing industries. Plymouth was linked to London by train in 1848, making Plymouth an International Travel hub.  Travel would not have been an unfamiliar subject even when my kitchen was new.

Travel would have been much more complex. Timescales would be significantly different. Climate adjustment slower and riskier

Sailing to Australia would have taken three to four months, one way. Sailing to Bergen took about two weeks.

Luggage of only 23 kg is more than adequate for either of us to have the right clothing for hugely different climates.

I cannot imagine how much luggage we would have needed to make such journeys 150 years ago. English women of all classes were wearing Bustles.

Just one dress would weigh more than 23kg!

Very few women travelled for pleasure or exploration in 1850. For the most part British women were shipped around the world to service the sexual and dynastic needs of British men abroad who were busy doing British things like Colonisation.

British men being the powerful people. Taking political, economic, and cultural control over other territories and populations. Exploiting resources, labour, people and land for the benefit of Britain.

How lucky are we in 2026 to be able to travel quickly to anywhere in the world and to any temperature with just 23k of luggage. Know with almost 100% certainty that we will return, to natter, at the kitchen table after our travels. Safe in the knowledge that travel will expand our minds and not require us to search for a husband or create children.

Big changes at the kitchen table.

#1349 theoldmortuary ponders.

What did I know about Dawlish before yesterday.

There is a warren of static caravan parks. Acre upon acre of box dwellings with net curtains that occlude distant views of the sea.

On a stormy day waves break over the trains.

I have been through Dawlish hundreds of times , usually on a non stopping train.

Yesterday I was on a stopping train and I got off. Yesterday getting off the train I met some of the famous Black Swans.

Enjoyed a rhubarb and custard ice cream.

And was on a pristine beach less than 5 minutes after leaving the station.

Dawlish is a really pretty place. I imagine it might be hell on earth in the summer months. The amusement arcades are certainly a version of that. Monstrous plastic ‘Family Entertainment ‘ spaces eager to take money under bright lights and loud music.

More fool me allowing my prejudice against seaside tat and net curtains stop me from visiting somewhere less than an hour from home.

Travel does broaden the mind even if it doesn’t involve a lot of miles.

A lovely loo too.

#761 theoldmortuary ponders

And so it begins. The dogs are on a mini-break in Cornwall and our train has just crossed Brunel’s rail bridge taking us on an adventure into the rest of the world. Home-made coffee in hand, thank goodness, as the buffet car has failed to make an appearance for this train. There are plans for today but we are also allowing serendipity to guide us. How exciting.

#747 theoldmortuary ponders

What is something others do that sparks your admiration?

I spend my entire life in admiration for the skills of others. Even skills that  I would never wish to have. This picture is a case in point. How do people become App designers and what skills does it require. My life is enriched massively by Apps and yet I know nothing about that career choice.

App design could not be further from my skillset and yet with the use of Apps on my phone I have managed to create a ponder out of this one picture. Just by googling and exploring my google picture file more fully than I usually do.

We came upon this ornate back gate, in Venice on one of our meanderings. I wasn’t sure how to weave it into a blog or if I would ever use it. But it enchants me so I googled the name over the gate and a blog emerged. This blog is all delicious serendipity.

In a gorgeous twist of serendipity Claude Monet had been here before us, in 1908.

The front entrance of Ramo De Ca Dario

Like me Claude was a little reluctant to visit Venice.

Monet’s Venice https://artsandculture.google.com/story/TQUhwOmSAhkOLA

I don’t know what Claude’s reluctance was, mine was caused by a particularly smelly visit many years ago. The visit had shattered my illusions but I am so glad I returned and just like Claude I am already planning another visit. Which takes me back to App appreciation. My phone can tell me exactly where and when I took this photo.

It can also show me all the photos that I took nearby.

This just blows me away, I can be incredibly lazy. My phone tells me there is an App update. I usually diligently do a download and think no more about it but App uploads are not just about better functionality. Sometimes really useful new features appear. The little black dots mark out the photos I took on one particular day and the route of my 20,000 steps. This is such a useful tool for planning future visits. So much more to see…

Until the next time.

#735 theoldmortuary ponders

Yesterday’s blog, https://theoldmortuary.design/2023/11/28/734-theoldmortuary-ponders/ , was all about an exhibition squeezed into our journey to a railway station that was absolutely the sort of thing we love to visit.

Todays blog subject is almost the complete opposite. Easy Jet decided at fairly late notice to cancel our flight home, giving us additional time in Venice until an alternative flight with a different carrier. Next door but one to our hotel there was an exhibition that would probably never be on a ‘must-visit’ list.

©Fondazione Prada

A replication of a 19th Century Venetian Portrait exhibition last curated together in 1920. Proximity to our hotel was key as we had agreed to meet some fellow abandoned travellers to share a water taxi when we discovered we were all on the same alternative flight. So we walked around Fondazione Prada the central bigger building in the picture above and visited Ca’ Pesaro the smaller white palazzo.

We could easily have filled our time in the Modern Art galleries but the deeply pigmented colours of the walls of the portrait exhibition lured us in.

Who wouldn’t be lured in?

What a revelation. The vibrant wall colours absolutely focussed the mind on the gloriousness of traditional portraiture. The anonymity, to us, of the subjects somehow made the whole exhibition easier to view. We even noticed an anomaly.

Real credit to the curators for making unknown portraits interesting. Just one room differed in layout from the 1920 exhibition. Maurizio Pelegrin, an installation artist born in Venice created a space with a very different feel. Like a squirt of lemon on a rich and unctuous meal. Just perfect.

#733 theoldmortuary ponders.

I suspect I will ponder Italy a lot this week. There were a lot of sights, sensations and experiences to process. If I had to come up with a hierarchy  of words that might sum up our experience. Contradictions, Amazement, Luxury and Beauty would all be at the top of the list. Rome gave us hotel luxury. When in Rome stay at The Hoxton. Surely the most comfy of communal areas with fascinating books to browse, while our feet recovered from our twenty thousand tourist steps.

With dedication and the Citymapper App we criss-crossed Rome and caught sight of many of the traditional bucket- list tourist spots. I use the words caught sight because the historic locations in Rome are all  being treated to renovation work. So without queueing in the long queues for each individual location it is very hard to see anything as there are just miles of 7 foot high wooden hoardings circling the perimeter of  every famous site. So I would say we glimpsed Roman antiquities from a distance, from the perspective of the many hills that we traversed. An evening trip to the Vatican City was not something we planned but when in Rome why not.

Spotlessly clean and very white, almost sterile with no fuzzy warm feeling of centuries of humanity coming together for worship. Curiously the feeling was more of a banking global HQ.With a rather fancy doorman. We did find a warm fuzzy feeling in a nearby cafe. Simple good food, great wine and a somewhat idiosyncratic decor of framed Disney jigsaw puzzles and many photos of the Pope kissing small children.

All the carb we could possibly need to fuel our walk home. Which took in a detour to the Trevi Fountain.

Which in turn required a few more calories. The Trevi fountain is fabulous in unexpected ways. The building and the fountain both morph out of the same mishapen and craggy marble boulders. All that skill!!!

I think this blog is a summation of our Rome disappointments, but for every disappointment there werealso hugely interesting unplanned events.

Just one more disappointment to get out into the open. A Contemporary Art Collection that was mind- blowingly empty of art and pretentiously full of arty-farty bollocks. But if that was a big low point it led us by way of a scruffy poster to tomorrows blog, a real unexpected treat.

#732 theoldmortuary ponders

Finding ourselves in the corner of an Art gallery.

After Coffee and Architecture the hunt for Art Galleries and tiny gardens was our motivation and route maker in Venice. The Peggy Guggenhein Collection was a fabulous destination because,not only did it have all  three targeted pleasure points, but the building itself it was also the subject of a book I had chosen as my holiday read.

A faacinating book because so many of the artists who were previously unknown to us, and many who are well known put in frequent appearances in the book. Palazzo Venier was the home to three unusual art and artist-loving women. Luisa Casati, Doris Castlerosse and Peggy Guggenheim.

The corners of this Palazzo hold so many secrets. I am not sure about defining interesting women by the amount or variety of sexual partners they have. But while living in this very peaceful and calm building these women lived quite the life. And goodness me this book tells the reader that this house has seen some action. Not just artistic types either. Churchill visited for R and R and happy endings when, given that he was a World Leader his mind should quite properly have been elsewhere.

The last owner before this home became a gallery is buried in the beautiful garden courtyard with her beloved dogs. Which answers, for her, the question below.

What are your favorite animals?

After an international life of great wealth and the friendship of some of the world’s most famous artists. Peggy Guggenheim chose to be buried beneath Venetian skies with her pet dogs.

It is easy to imagine how that decision was made. There is an astonishing sense of peace and calm under the blue skies of a November day in her last resting place.

My favourite painting from this particular collection of hers is also superbly peaceful. Which proves, I suppose that peace can be found anywhere if you look hard enough.

Empire of Light by Rēne Margritte

#730 theoldmortuary ponders.

We have certainly done some steps in Italy and there are many blogs to follow when the ponder is upon me.

Pigment store in Venice

When we were in Rome we pondered ancient civilisations and contemporary art. A quest that was largely successful with some fabulous surprises thrown in. Our last Art gallery before a train trip to Venice had a prophetic slogan on a T-Shirt.

As luck would have it we were off to the Biennale, but not the Fine Art one with National Pavilions. The Architecture Biennale offered cool spaces in beautiful buildings many of them being restored. No t-shirts with instructions were available which rather allowed us to do as we wished

Which of course was to flâneur a lot.

#729 theoldmortuary ponders.

It is not every day that The Guardian writes a holiday review for Hugo and Lola

https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2023/nov/16/country-diary-ferns-and-ivy-sparkle-in-the-wet-undergrowth?CMP=Share_AndroidApp_Other&fbclid=IwAR0HbbU2gJ1oYdL1cYwM4fGf1dfJNVvgEU7lqWabFSGiybzU3suACFvEvJ0

But as I sit enjoying an early morning coffee on the Grand Canal of Venice . A watery motorway of much beauty. I can read a proper writer’s opinion of a place that was home for many years. And the location of so many Pandemic Ponderings, the forerunner of theoldmortuary ponders. So as I set off for another day of wandering aimlessly please enjoy the landscape that is currently exhausting the dogs.